Hi Kris,
If you can, I’d like to hear your perspective on this.
I was dead set on upgrading to a 18KX450 since they are so cheap at the moment. I currently ride an 18KX250F and have it setup well with dual spring forks as well as SFF spring forks – both work great. I’m certain that I’ll feel at home on the KX and most of my stuff will swap over – PC clamps, suspension, etc.
Fast forward to yesterday at Cahuilla. I rode a stock 18 CRF450 with a PC dual pipe. I’ve previously have ridden 2 different 17 CRF’s and felt the power was too herky-jerky and both weren’t set up well. Basically, they scared the shit out of me and I wanted off. The 18 CRF I rode still had some of the jerkiness down low and while I didn’t care for this, I was starting to appreciate the engine character after a few laps. Since the 18 CRF setup was balanced, I was blown away how well the bike carved turns and stayed planted. Gave me tons of confidence. I also felt the bike laid into turns effortlessly. The turning feel blew me away.
All said, KX’s can turn pretty well with a good setup but I don’t think I’ll ever get one setup as good as a CRF, but in general, we all know the KX does a lot of things well, but nothing great – thus its appeal.
All said, if you were me, what direction would you lean. At 51, I can make my own decisions, but perhaps you have additional perspective I’m not seeing.
Thank you in advance. -Rich
Rich,
I understand what you’re saying. I always give older vet guys this piece of advice:
Lean towards a bike that corners better and sacrifices a little straight line stability if at all possible. When we get older we need all the help we can get to corner better, which in turn makes us have more fun at riding. Because we all know cornering is the key to moto. Now the Kawasaki does a lot of great things, but slicing an inside rut isn’t really one of its strengths. It is lighter, but the Honda simply can out corner the green bike in most areas. You also will have more front end traction with the Honda than the Kawasaki and that will give you more confidence at Cahuilla where you need some front end feel in those bottom flatter corners.
Another thing….Lets say you don’t like the Honda after a couple months right? Honda’s have waaaaaay better resale value and will actually sell unlike a Kawasaki. Food for thought.
Have fun!
-KK
Keefer,
Long time Pulp fan, and also a Keefer fan. Love the pods man. Great work.
I have a 2015 YZ250F. I am a vet rider, 200lbs, 5’11”, and race 30+B/C. I’m closer to the C than B. Anyway, I took about 15 years off, and started riding again in 2013. I have made very dramatic changes to my riding style, and I have also gotten much better. So as I progress, it’s sometimes hard to Identify if the issue, or improvement, was made by me or a part swap. Hence my current situation. I am an engineer, so the logic, and test setup I dwell on more than most. You are pretty solid in your test setup and analysis, I would love to throw some engineering process at you sometime. Would be pretty cool.
Anyways, I know the yz stuff is pretty damn good stock. I added a pro circuit linkage about 2 years ago. I found this helped my cornering feel. But is there anything it may of hurt that I didn’t notice?. I have made a lot of progress since that time. So here is my question.
I’m confused on where this suspension works, or doesn’t for most. Where is “center”? What’s your comments on stock form? Maybe I should go back to the stock linkage? Maybe I should re-valve or spring for my weight. Just looking to improve, but don’t know enough to move one way. The MXA settings are really weird. An old article, but they noted what the average guy liked. The low speed in the rear for example they said they liked 19 clicks out! I add HS to get better bottoming resistance and I am stink bug. I run the front forks 5mm up and about 103mm sag.
So I want to reset. Not because it’s not working, but because I want to know how it’s actually working, and make it better. The actual problem may be me, and not the bike. I am a front end steering guy.
Hoping you can set a baseline for me to pay attention to and Refrence.
Sorry if grammar is weird. Sent from my phone, and having issues re-reading this.
Keith,
You sound like a typical moto guy, overthinking shit. HAHA.
I tried a link on a 2015 YZ250F and didn’t like it. I thought it helped coming into corners, but hurt it coming out. I preferred the stock balance or a re-valve.
Here is my thoughts…
Go bak to stock linkage and get your sag at 100-102mm ASAP. Raise your fork up 4mm in clamp. That is a good starting point to ride and feel what is going on.
Make sure your clickers are in the stock position and work from there. The bike is going to be soft for you anyway at 200 pounds so you will probably need to go stiffer/slower on both ends.
There are very few bikes that a link helps (I am not an engineer so I can’t give you schematics on why), but I know just of of feel because I am test rider.
After you’re done turning clickers and you have the “best” possible set up for you, try the link and see if you can feel what the differences are. You should be able to decipher right away the pros and cons of the link.
If you’re having trouble go back an listen to my podcasts “How To Test” and this will help!
Thanks,
KK
Hi Keefer,
My name is Alec I have a 2014 rmz250 and my bike is having a hard time shifting into neutral. it will skip between first and second, but sometimes while I’m mid moto I’ll go to shift up into second and I’ll grab neutral or even after my moto I’ll try to find it before putting it on the stand and it will continue to skip between first and second. What could it be? -Alec
Alec,
Usually this is a normal occurrence, but I don’t know the condition your bike is in to be sure. There were some tranny problems with the 14 RM-Z250, so check your oil for metal when you drain/change. The shifting is notchy on Suzuki’s and you really have to use/pull the clutch to shift more on this bike.
Check your oil for flakes and such!
-KK
Hey Kris,
Love all of your podcasts and content!
I know some of the differences between the Tech 7 and 10 (as I have a few pairs of 10’s) but haven’t tried on the 7’s.
I’m a gear geek like you and notice a lot of things. I’ve noticed Cody Webb will wear the Tech 7 in more extreme enduro type riding and the 10 other times like in Endurocross. But I’ve also seen him wear the 10 in some more extreme type stuff.
Is it because the 7 has less support without the bootie so it’s easier to move around on the bike with?
DJ,
7s are lighter and some guys like that better. It is also because it doesn’t have a bootie and they feel like they can feel the controls better when on their pegs. That is usually the reason. The bootie design is great for ankle protection and I personally think that tech 10 boots are one of my favorites!
Cody has clubfeet so he needs some extra room at times! LOL..
-KK
Keefer I recently raced the first rd. of the NHHA series and smoked my clutch. I’m looking to get a new one and was thinking of putting a Hinson in it. I have heard that the Hinson clutch pull is a little stiffer, but being this is a Hydraulic I don’t know if that would apply. Should I go this route or stick with an OEM? Also can I run the stock basket and just get the plates and springs? Love the podcast and thanks for the help. -Jeremy
The Hinson will not make the clutch pull harder on the KTM. However, I do feel like the stock KTM stuff is pretty good. Maybe look at the rubbers inside your clutch because sometimes I will crack mine after heavy abuse after around 10 hours.
You can never go wrong with Hinson, but just make sure you willing to spend the money. Sometimes stock isn’t that bad.
-KK
Hey man love the show! My name is Kyle and I’m looking at a new bike here real soon. I stopped by Vey’s and talked with Tyler for a good minute and I think I’ve got narrowed down between KTM and Yamaha. Ultimate goal is to have a two stroke and a four stroke but I’m stuck between brands. I’m really drawn to the 350sxf and the 150sx but have heard a few scares about reliability. Can’t go wrong with a Yamaha in that department and I really like the new 450 but it might be a little much for me. I’m 30 years old, 5’6 and float between 170 and 180. Decent novice or C rider but I stay away from things like Pala’s main track. Definitely want to start racing again but I’m not trying to make lorettas or anything. Just want to have a lot fun on the bike. Air forks are also a little weird from what I’ve heard but honestly I don’t know if I’d be able to notice a difference. Any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated man. -Kyle
Kyle,
If you’re not racing and are looking for just a fun bike to ride the KTM 350 SX-F is a very good bike. It is a little pricey and does have an air fork, but the air fork is one of the best “air forks” on the market. The Yamaha is a great bike, but I am thinking that might be too much of a bike for you to have some real fun on.
The 150 might be too much work to keep on the pipe and rip around the amateur track at Pala.
With the 350 you can be lazy or you can rev it out. It is really the best of both worlds so look into a new 350 SX-F.
Let me know what you get and if you need some set up advice when you do!
Cheers,
KK
Hi I’m 28 years old I have always wanted to get into riding dirt bikes but have never had the opportunity. I’m in the market for one so when my son gets old enough we can ride together. Do you have any recommendations and a Good 250 bike for someone just getting started. I would like to get the 2018 CRF but its pricey. But also getting a used one can be pricey and idk if its been abused, or if there is anything wrong with it . If you have any tips on how I should go about this I would really appreciate it.
Thanks,
Dale Shuler
Dale,
Happy to hear you’re getting into dirt bikes! I absolutely love hearing this!
Buying used is tough unless you know the person and he or she takes great care of the bike! However any used 2016 and up YZ250F is a great bike. Try to purchase a bike that has an hour meter on it that way you know how much time is on the engine/chassis. The owner should or might have put one on it. Anyone who cares about their dirt bikes usually has an hour meter on it somewhere.
Also if you do go to a new bike try looking at one with an electric start. It makes life easier. The new Honda has one or if you’re just trail riding look at a YZ250FX. stay away from used Suzuki’s or Kawasaki’s if at all possible.
For a first bike stick with a Honda or Yamaha.
Let me know what you get!
-KK
